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1. ½ inch threaded steel rod 2. temperature controller 3. bolted angle iron frame 4. ¾ inch thick wooden base 5. veneer screw mold clamp 6. 0.125 inch steel nozzle 7. 4 inch dia copper tubing 8. 4 inch truck exhaust clamp 9. pipe clamp as a guide 10. hand-sanded steel piping 11. hole for a 3 foot lever |
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The temperature controller opens and closes contacts on a big
old relay, turning on and off the 120 volt AC power. The AC power is connected to a spiral of nichrome wire.
Current causes the nichrome to reach red heat fast. The heat is transferred to a brass pipe nipple
that functions as a cylindrical melting chamber. The thermocouple in the temperature controller almost touches the brass pipe, near the nozzle.
Most readily available thermoplastics melt in the 300-500°F range. An aluminum block mold is screw-clamped tight against the nozzle, to
receive the molten plastic, pushed in manually by a lever. The nozzle, machined from a ¾ inch stainless steel bolt, was force-fitted and then bolted into the brass chamber. The piston, a steel pipe nipple, was hand-sanded with emery cloth to a sliding fit. There is a GFI receptacle on the AC line cord, for safety. The paint used was a high temperature brown gas grill type spray paint. By the way, the injector I built is for sale, as-is. If you are interested, e-mail an offer. |
